International Art Treasures Web Magazine

June 2006  

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Tiffany!

Bejewelled by Tiffany
1837-1987
Gilbert Collection, Somerset House, Strand, London
June 24 - November 26, 2006

Charles Louis Tiffany was the son of a cotton-mill owner. Following a brief apprenticeship in his father's mill Tiffany opened a luxury items and stationary store in New York City. It began in 1837 after his father invested the necessary start-up funding.

Finding success with his business partner, John B. Young, together they expanded their business importing European products. Within a decade the store had moved to Broadway and begun to manufacture gold jewelry. Europe's violent history of 1848; separate revolutions in Germany, Austria and Italy among other unrest caused the price of diamonds to drop: Tiffany seized his advantage.

Title: Brooch by Bapst, 1864, for Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III (1808-73)
Medium: Gold, Silver, Diamonds, Pearls, Emerald
Dimensions: 4.3 x 6.5 x 2 cm
Purchased by Tiffany and Co. at the sale of the French Crown Jewels 1887
Photo and ©: Tiffany & Co

The business expanded into silver and during the American Civil War Tiffany produced military swords. He was a noted collector of art and historic pieces. During the sale of the French Crown Jewels in 1887 Tiffany purchased a brooch once owned by Empress Eugénie.

After the fall of the Second French Empire the French Ministry of Finance had the Crown Jewels sold at auction to raise funds. Several of the pieces had been designed for Empress Eugénie by the Parisian firm of Bapst.

Among his many philanthropic activities, Jeptha Homer Wade, was one of those responsible for the incorporation of the Cleveland Museum of Art. As such he established a purchasing fund for the Museum and served as the president of the museum from 1920 until his death in 1926.

The Designers

Tiffany has hired many talented designers over the years including Donald Claflin, Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso.

Title: Dragon Brooch, circa 1967
Artist: Donald Claflin
Medium: Platinum, Gold , Turquoise, Diamonds, Emeralds, Ruby,
Dimensions: 5.7 x 4.4 cm
Image Courtesy and ©: Tiffany & Co.

Donald Claflin was particularly known for his whimsical designs such as the Dragon Brooch.

Title: Cuff Bracelet, 1989
Artist: Paloma Picasso, 1989
Medium: Gold, Green Tourmalines
Dimensions: 6 x 7.3 x 6.4 cm
Image Courtesy & ©: Tiffany & Co.

Paloma, the daughter of Pablo Picasso and Françoise Gilot, was born in Villaurius, France. It was in this locale on the French Riviera where her famous father Pablo made his home and began his work with ceramics. She was the subject of numerous of her father's works and eventually began her own company designing clothing, perfume and jewelry.

The Exhibit

The exhibit is for the most part scheduled to be in a chronological arrangement, beginning with The Rise of an American Institution section, focusing on the early days and some of Charles Lewis Tiffany's successes, such as the purchase of items from the French Crown Jewel collection.

They were meant to commemorate every occasion while also demonstrating the various influences of the historical time frames, such as ancient classical world, the Renaissance, India and the Far East. On display here will be a piece similar to one purchased by American President Lincoln for his wife to wear at the Inaugural Ball.

Bejewelled by Tiffany: 1837-1987 is the most comprehensive exhibition of Tiffany jewelry that has ever been put on display. The exhibit is designed to bring the rich and vibrant history of Tiffany & Co to the British Isles. Many of the items are making their first ever public display.

Bejewelled by Tiffany:
Gilbert Collection, London, England:
June 24 - November 26, 2006